Process for manufacturing welted boots and shoes without lasting.



E. LANGENOHL.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTUR'NG WELTED BOOTS AND SHOES WiTHOUT LAS TING.

APPLICATION HLED MAYZZ, I909.

151 899% 19mm m 11, 1915.

3 SHEETSSHEET I.

E. LANGENQHL. I PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING WELTED BOOTS AND SHOES WITHOUT LASTING.

x 'APPLlCATl0N FILED MAY22,1909.

E. LANGENOHL.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING WELTED BOOTS AND SHOES WITHOUT LASTING.

APPLICATION FILED PM: 22, 1909.

Patented May 11, 1915.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3 W in a 8 se 3 *NT @F EWALD LAnsnnonn; or iwEnMELsKInonEn, GERMANY.

PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURINQ BOOTS AND- SHOES WITHOUT LASTING.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, EWALD at lVermelskirchen, in Rheinland, Germany, lVustbachstrasse 2, have invented new and useful lmprovcn'lents in Processes for Manufacturing Vvelted Boots and Shoes lr ithout Lasting, of which the following is a specification.

The present process is for the purpose of dispensing with the use of lasts when manufacturing welted footgear, or at least considerably to restrict the use of the same, and thus avoid the considerable outlay of capital and worlring expenscs incurred in shoe factories by the purchase and maintaining of lasts, and at the same time of avoiding the hand labor incurred in placing the uppers on the last.

The process according to this invention is carried out in the following manner :First the upper is sewed together from the usual parts, which, however, are not cut with a broad projecting portion on the lower edge but are out exactly to the outline of the form to be produced. Then the welt, in the form of a strip of strong fairly stiff leather, is sewed around the edge of the lower opening of the upper. Then by means of suitable pressing devices, utilizingthe welt for hold ing together the upper connected with it, the toe portion, and then the heel portion of the upper, are pressed into the shape of the finished boot and at the same time the welt is adjusted parallel to the plane of the sole. Then when the actual shaping of the boot or shoe is essentially finished, the sole is fitted to the welt and provisionally fastened so that subsequently, the shoe can be closed by sewing together the welt and the sole.

Figure 1 shows in side elevation an upper sewed to the welt. Fig. 2 is a side elevation of a. pressing device serving for carrying out the present process. Fig. 3 shows a plan view of both the parts serving on the one hand for holding and on the other hand. for pressing the boot or shoe. Figs. l and -5 show the working of the pressing device when forming the toe portion. Fig. 6 shows the working of the pressing device when forming the heel portion. Fig. 7 is a longitudinal section through a finished boot.

Fig. 8 is a plan view of Fig. 7 as seen from below. Fig. 9 is a cross-section through the finished boot showing the method of attaching the sole. Fig. 10 shows the use of an Specification of Letters Patent.

Lanennonn, v manufacturer, sub]ect of Prussia, residing provisionally attaehing the sole.

In carrying out the present process the .various portions of the uppers are cut in the usual manner but considerably closer on. the sides corresponding to the lower edges, than is necessary when carrying out the ordinary tacking process. Then the portions of the uppers are joined together in the usual manner so that they form the upper 1. Then by means of a strong machine stitch the leather strip 2, forming the,

welt, is sewed on parallel to the lower edge of the upper, and not only around the front portion of the shoe but also around the heel. In order to obtain a very strong watertight connection between the upper and the welt, as well as. to avoid the formation of any folds when shaping the boot, more particularly in the toe portion at the edge of the upper and in the welt, both parts are furthermore sewed with a second machine stitch 4 running parallel to the first seam 3. For the shaping of the foot gear subsequently to this preliminary preparation it is of the utmost importance that the shape of the foot gear is essentially determined on the one hand by the shape of the toe part and on the other hand by the shape of' this into consideration according to the present process, the curved shape whichthe toe partand the heel part should have in the finished shoe is imparted successively, on the one hand to the toe part and on the other hand to the heel part, by ressing, whereas the shape of the. side .pafl determined on connecting up the welt with the sole. For shaping these curved parts a device such as shown in Fig. 201" like device is employed with advantage. This device consists of a frame 5 in the one vertical arm of which a. pressure spindle 6 is so arranged that .it can be moved forward or backward by means of a screw and a nut, the latter being provided with a hand wh a v Patented May M, 1915. Application filed itrlay 22, 1909. Serial No. 497,680. I

auxiliary device which may be conveniently utilized when its The press head 7 is fitted to the end of this spindle 6, which head 7 as may be seen from Fig. 2 and from the plan View of Fig. 3, is for example of the same shape 5 as the interior of the toe part of the boot. A supporting plate 8 is fastened to a second arm of the trains 5 at the height of the.

' sole surface of this press head 7 directly opposite the latter. This supporting plate or block 8, on its edge turned toward the pressure head 7, is provided with a recess corresponding to the toe part of the shoe or more exactly to the shape of the seam connecting the upper and the welt together, that is to say of the seam 4:, of the finished shoe. The shaping of the toe part by means of this device is so effected that by bending in the heel part beneath the spindle 6, as may be seen from Fig. 4, the upper is placed over the press head. 7 and after bending the welt 2 down into the plane of the sole the toe, part of the upper is pushed into the recess of the supporting block 8. Then the head 7 is moved step by step forwardly until it reaches the end position shown in Fig; 5. By this means, the upper is supported against the edge of the recess of the supporting block 8 and the welt, resting on the top of this plate 8, the upper is prevented from slipping off from the same and consequently the desired shape of the toe can be imparted to the upper by means of the press head 7 the seams 3 and 4 proventing the formation of any folds in the upper. The edge strips of the upper, as well as of the welt, are held together by the seams and are only subjected to the slight change of form resulting from the permancnt turning over of the welt into a position paralle to the upper surface of the supporting block 8, that is to say, in the plane of the sole, the outer edge of the welt undergoing a certain extension. The shaping of the heel part is effected in an exactly similar manner by means of the same or of a similar press device in which the head 7 is substituted by a corresponding head 9 and the supporting plate 8 by a similar plate with a recess corresponding to the heel part. When pressing the heel part, as may be seen from. Fig. i), the already shaped toe part is bent down until the movement of the pressure spindle 6 is I'lOlJ PI'Qi'QTltQCl, this being easily possible owing to the flexibility of the sides of the upper.

The pressing process brings the upper into the shape as shown in Figs. 7 and 8. The 'weltbent down in the front and the back lfltOillC: plane of the sole also adjusts itself between both the shaped ends in the plane of the sole. Thus without any difficulty, as may be seen from Fig. 9, a suitably cut sole 10 may be placed on the bottom opening of the shoe, which sole is previously prepared for the final fastcningby being provisionally stuck to the welt by means of cement or in some other suitable manner. By suitably cutting the sole and fitting the welt along the edge of the same, the shape of the side parts can also be finally determined, without necessitating the use of a last for this purpose. In many cases, however, it is preferable to use a last when cementing on the sole and when finally attaching the same. Inasmuch as, however, both these operations only occupy but a very short time and as furthermore the last is not exposed to moisture nor to be damaged by nails and the like, even in such cases the number of lasts necessary for a certain production is considerably reduced and the lasts can be used for a much longer period before being worn out. i

In order to facilitate the attaching of the sole and the correct shaping of the side parts, a templet 11 consisting 0t several parts is advantageously made use of. lhis templet has a recess formed in it corresponding to the bottom shape of the shoe and at the edge is so sharpened that its parts can be inserted into the groove between the upper and the welt. When fastening on the sole 10 this templet maintains the correct shape and furthermore serves as counter support for pressing the edge of the sole on to the welt when cementing on the former.

As may be seen from Fig. 9 in dotted lines at 12 the necessary inlay for equalizing the thickness of the welt and the upper can be fastened subsequent to or previously to the fastening. of the sole 10, on to the inside of the latter by means of any suitable paste or in some other suitable manner; an inner sock 13 may also be placed on this interme diate layer.

The final fastening of the sole 10 is suit i ably effected by the usual strong machine sewing, which passes through the outer edge of-the welt and of the sole. The heel pieces are fastened to the sole by means of nai s screws or the like. Any necessary joiht stiffening parts are arranged as usual in the shoe within the hollow space which exists between the inwardly bent edges bf the upper and of the welt and which, as nicptioned, is filled up in the front part of the shoe by packing. To the sole 10 serving for closing the shoe other sole pieces or treads may be fastened in the usual manner.

What I claim and desire to secure by Lettors Patent is The hereindescribed method of constructing a boot orshoe, which consists in securing a welt around the entire margin of an. 'unsolcd upper blank prior to the shaping of said upper, and in bending said welt down.- u'ardly and away from said upper blank into a plane approximately parallel with the plane of the tread face of the boot or shoe, and'in successively applying pressure to the interior and exterior of the toe and In testimony whereof I have signed my heel portions of-the upper to shape said name to this specification in the presence of parts, and in applying pressure to the extwo subscribing Witnesses.

terior of the sides of the upper between the EWALD LANGENOHL. 5 Welt and the lower margin of the upper, i Witnesses:

and applying a sole, substantially as de PAUL BRAHLIN,

scribed. Loms VANDORN. 

